Chindeni was also great for game walks which we usually did in the cool of the morning with our guides, trackers and ranger. We learned about the defence mechanisms of many plants which release tannins to deter browsers. And about the Raintree, which has an insect which sucks the sap of the leaves causing water secretions to drip down onto the ground, hence its name. We saw the huge bony skull of an elephant killed by poachers long ago, and the hole where the bullet entered and felled this giant animal. We looked at the beautiful red blossoms of the distinctive Sausage Tree, which has bright green leaves when everything else is brown and dry, and heavy sausage-shaped fruit, some as big as footballs.
Our game drives often took us down to the Luangwa River where one evening, at sunset, we watched herd after herd of elephants crossing the river from the other side. They came up onto the bank about 30-40 metres from us and disappeared into the darkening bush. We sat on the bank with our sundowners, watching in awe.
A few hours’ drive along the Kapamba River – a tributary of the Luangwa – took us to our next camp – Kapamba Bushcamp in an isolated part of the park where we saw just one other vehicle. This lovely camp overlooks the river with its cool, shallow water where game often came to drink. The main camp has a raised deck with an open-sided sitting and dining area, comfy couches, a bar, and a small swimming pool looking over the river. This was the perfect place to cool off during the middle of the day, as the weather was getting hotter.